Tree Felling

Safe, controlled removal of whole trees — including the awkward ones, where there is no room to simply drop it.

When Felling Is The Right Answer

Felling is not always the answer, and we will say so if it isn't. A tree that is leaning, dropping limbs, or lifting a path can often be reduced or deadwooded instead, and keeping a healthy mature tree is usually the better outcome for the garden and for the value of the property.

Where removal genuinely is the right call, it is normally for one of these reasons:

  • The tree is dead, dying, or structurally unsound.
  • It has outgrown the space and is damaging a wall, drain, fence, or foundation.
  • It is the wrong species in the wrong place, and reduction would only buy a year or two.
  • Storm damage has left it unstable.
  • It is blocking a development, driveway, or extension with planning permission.

Straight Felling Or Sectional Dismantling

If there is clear ground to drop the tree into, straight felling is quickest and cheapest. Most gardens do not have that, so the tree comes down in pieces instead — the climber works down from the top, cutting controlled sections and lowering them on ropes rather than letting them fall.

Sectional dismantling takes longer and costs more, but it is what makes it possible to remove a large tree standing over a conservatory, a neighbour's fence, a greenhouse, or a parked car without touching any of them. If a quote seems unusually cheap for a tight-access job, it is worth asking how they intend to get it down.

Permission, Wildlife, And Doing It Properly

A great many trees across our area are protected, and felling one without consent is a criminal offence. If the tree carries a Tree Preservation Order you need written consent first; if it stands in a conservation area you must give the council six weeks notice. Our guide to tree permission explains how to check, and we can make the application for you.

Wildlife law applies as well. Bat roosts are protected regardless of whether bats are present at the time, and it is an offence to damage an active bird's nest. Where there is any doubt we will inspect before starting rather than find out halfway up.

What Happens To The Tree

Every job is quoted to include clearance. Timber, brash, and chip all leave site unless you would like logs cut and stacked for firewood, which many customers do — just say when we quote and it costs you nothing.

Felling leaves a stump. If you want the ground back for turf, planting, or paving, stump grinding is usually done at the same visit, which works out cheaper than bringing the machine back separately.

Common Questions

Do I need permission to have a tree felled?

Possibly. If the tree has a Tree Preservation Order you need the council's written consent before any work starts. If it is in a conservation area you must give six weeks written notice. Both are straightforward but they take time, so it is worth checking early. We can handle the application for you.

Can you fell a tree in a small garden with no access?

Usually yes. Rather than felling it in one piece we dismantle it in sections from the top, lowering each piece on ropes. It is slower than straight felling but it means large trees can come out of narrow terraced gardens without damage to anything around them.

Will you take the stump out as well?

We can. Stump grinding is quoted separately because not everyone needs it, but doing it on the same visit is cheaper than a return trip. If you plan to turf or replant over the area, grinding is worth doing.

How long does felling take?

A straightforward garden tree with clear access is often half a day. A large tree needing sectional dismantling over buildings can take a full day or more. We will tell you which when we quote rather than leaving you guessing.

What happens to the wood?

It is removed as part of the quoted price. If you would like logs kept for firewood we will cut and stack them for you at no extra cost — just mention it beforehand.

Other Tree Surgery Work

Need A Quote?

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